Jean Paul Gaultier at the Brooklyn Museum

During a recent trip to Brooklyn, I had the immense pleasure of attending the “Jean Paul Gaultier:  From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk” exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum, a retrospective exhibit of the work of John Paul Gaultier, from the time he emerged as a designer in the 1970s to the present.

The exhibit was nothing short of amazing.  As a true fan of Gaultier’s work since I picked up my first Vogue sometime in the early 80s, I was deeply entranced by the artistry and workmanship that went into the more than 130 haute couture and prêt-à-porter ensembles in the exhibit - some familiar and others that I was seeing for the first time - accompanied by audiovisual materials, sketches, early designs and photographs, spanning over 35 years.  

Some of the creations have graced the likes of Princess Caroline of Hanover, actress Marion Cotillard, Catherine Deneuve and Sarah Jessica Parker, as well as singers Beyonce and Kylie Minogue.  Costumes that he created for one of his most lasting muses, Madonna, are promininently displayed throughout the exhibit.

From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk allowed for a candid glimpse into the origins of Gaultier’s genius, touching on his early influences, his muses, and his immense creativity.  I have always been drawn to designers with a flair for the dramatic, and Gaultier continues to fuel that love decades after I first glimpsed his signature Breton striped shirt, shock of white blond hair and twinkling blue eyes.

The multimedia exhibit is organized around six of Gaultier’s most enduring themes in his work:

The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier— Opens the exhibit.  The sea blue backdrop sets the stage for an exploration of several of Gaultier’s signature motifs –themes and variations of the sailor suit, embellished mermaids, as well as religious iconography and virgins.  Beautiful faces (some of French celebrities), created by high-definition audiovisual projections on custom mannequins, lure you in with their siren song.  In the midst of it all is a life-sized mannequin of Gaultier himself to welcome you into his mad, mad world.

The Boudoir—In this section, we meet “Nana,” Gaultier’s childhood teddy bear who served as an early fit model for his iconic cone bra.  The Boudoir is dedicated to Gaultier’s fascination with lingerie and underpinnings.  Many of the sketches and pieces from Madonna’s “Blonde Ambition” tour and “Drowned World” tour are featured in this section.

Gaultier's teddy bear "Nana" circa 1957 

Two corsets worn by Madonna in her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour

 Skin Deep—Perhaps my favorite stop in the exhibit is the Skin Deep section.  Designed to resemble a peep show, this risqué, provocative gallery features garments inspired by themes of bondage and body art.

The centerpiece of this section is a rotating platform of mannequins dressed in creations that give the illusion of muscle, skeleton and nerves.

Punk Cancan—The center runway continuously loops Gaultier’s upscale French couture creations – including a head to toe houndstooth ensemble, complete with cane, the infamous cigarette garter, and skirt painted on the underside with “can-can” legs; while the flanking runways feature an explosion of faux mohawks, tartan, denim, and camouflage, typical of the street punks of London.  The first thing you see when you enter the room is a spectacular strapless chiffon-camouflage ball gown that Sarah Jessica Parker wore to the 2000 MTV Awards, which required 312 hours to make.

Urban Jungle— Showcases how global Gaultier’s influences are, including African tribes, Spanish Flamenco dancers, Japanese Samauri, Romanis, Hussars, Mongolians, Hassidic Jews, Frida Kahlo and China.  This is a visually stimulating gallery featuring highlights of Gaultier’s amazing detailing work with unusual materials and techniques.  If you are a lover of haute couture, you will love this section of the exhibit.

The highlight is an awe inspiring Native American wedding gown.

         

                

Muses – illustrates how Gaultier completely erases boundaries with his work – whether it’s sending men down the runway in skirts or a larger-than-life Beth Ditto in a corset or centering an entire collection around Amy Winehouse, who had recently died as a result of drug use – he established this new idea of what is beautiful.    

This section also features a body suit meant to make the wearer appear nude, with beading at the juncture of the thighs as pubic hair.

Metropolis—Showcases the work Gaultier has done for film, videos and performance pieces, including the costumes he designed for the film “the Fifth Element,” the codpiece Larry Blackmon of Cameo wears in the “Word Up” video, and stage costumes for Kylie Minogue and Tina Turner.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier and his avant-garde designs have repeatedly and unapologetically pushed the envelope – challenging societal norms, gender roles, and the definition of beauty for decades, making him one of the most influential designers of the modern era.  This exhibit tells that story to perfection. 

It is a fun and insightful exhibit that even had my husband, who is not into fashion at all, a little in awe of Gaultier’s ingeniousness.

The traveling exhibition “The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk” will be on display at the Brooklyn Museum until February 23, 2014.