During a recent trip to Brooklyn, I had the immense pleasure
of attending the
“Jean
Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the
Catwalk” exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum, a retrospective exhibit of the
work of John Paul Gaultier, from the time he emerged as a designer in the 1970s
to the present.
The exhibit was nothing short of amazing. As a true fan of Gaultier’s work since I
picked up my first Vogue sometime in the early 80s, I was deeply entranced by
the artistry and workmanship that went into the more than 130 haute couture and
prêt-à-porter ensembles in the exhibit - some familiar and others that I was
seeing for the first time - accompanied by audiovisual materials, sketches,
early designs and photographs, spanning over 35 years.
Some of the creations have graced the likes of Princess
Caroline of Hanover, actress Marion Cotillard, Catherine Deneuve and Sarah
Jessica Parker, as well as singers Beyonce and Kylie Minogue. Costumes that he created for one of his most
lasting muses, Madonna, are promininently displayed throughout the exhibit.
From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk allowed for a candid glimpse
into the origins of Gaultier’s genius, touching on his early influences, his
muses, and his immense creativity. I
have always been drawn to designers with a flair for the dramatic, and Gaultier
continues to fuel that love decades after I first glimpsed his signature Breton
striped shirt, shock of white blond hair and twinkling blue eyes.
The multimedia exhibit is organized around six of Gaultier’s
most enduring themes in his work:
The Odyssey of Jean
Paul Gaultier— Opens the exhibit.
The sea blue backdrop sets the stage for an exploration of several of Gaultier’s
signature motifs –themes and variations of the sailor suit, embellished
mermaids, as well as religious iconography and virgins. Beautiful faces (some of French celebrities),
created by high-definition audiovisual projections on custom mannequins, lure
you in with their siren song. In the
midst of it all is a life-sized mannequin of Gaultier himself to welcome you
into his mad, mad world.
The Boudoir—In
this section, we meet “Nana,” Gaultier’s childhood teddy bear who served as an
early fit model for his iconic cone bra.
The Boudoir is dedicated to Gaultier’s fascination with lingerie and
underpinnings. Many of the sketches and
pieces from Madonna’s “Blonde Ambition” tour and “Drowned World” tour are
featured in this section.
Gaultier's teddy bear "Nana" circa 1957
Two corsets worn by Madonna in her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour
Skin Deep—Perhaps
my favorite stop in the exhibit is the Skin Deep section. Designed to resemble a peep show, this risqué,
provocative gallery features garments inspired by themes of bondage and body
art.
The centerpiece of this section is a rotating platform of
mannequins dressed in creations that give the illusion of muscle, skeleton and
nerves.
Punk Cancan—The
center runway continuously loops Gaultier’s upscale French couture creations –
including a head to toe houndstooth ensemble, complete with cane, the infamous
cigarette garter, and skirt painted on the underside with “can-can” legs; while
the flanking runways feature an explosion of faux mohawks, tartan, denim, and
camouflage, typical of the street punks of London. The first thing you see when you enter the
room is a spectacular strapless chiffon-camouflage ball gown that Sarah Jessica
Parker wore to the 2000 MTV Awards, which required 312 hours to make.
Urban Jungle—
Showcases how global Gaultier’s influences are, including African tribes,
Spanish Flamenco dancers, Japanese Samauri, Romanis, Hussars, Mongolians,
Hassidic Jews, Frida Kahlo and China.
This is a visually stimulating gallery featuring highlights of
Gaultier’s amazing detailing work with unusual materials and techniques. If you are a lover of haute couture, you will
love this section of the exhibit.
The highlight is an awe inspiring Native American wedding gown.
Muses –
illustrates how Gaultier completely erases boundaries with his work – whether
it’s sending men down the runway in skirts or a larger-than-life Beth Ditto in
a corset or centering an entire collection around Amy Winehouse, who had
recently died as a result of drug use – he established this new idea of what is
beautiful.
This section also features a body suit meant to make the
wearer appear nude, with beading at the juncture of the thighs as pubic hair.
Metropolis—Showcases
the work Gaultier has done for film, videos and performance pieces, including
the costumes he designed for the film “the Fifth Element,” the codpiece Larry
Blackmon of Cameo wears in the “Word Up” video, and stage costumes for Kylie
Minogue and Tina Turner.
Jean Paul Gaultier and his avant-garde designs have
repeatedly and unapologetically pushed the envelope – challenging societal
norms, gender roles, and the definition of beauty for decades, making him one
of the most influential designers of the modern era. This exhibit tells that story to perfection.
It is a fun and insightful exhibit that even had my husband,
who is not into fashion at all, a little in awe of Gaultier’s ingeniousness.
