During a recent trip to Brooklyn, I had the immense pleasure
of attending the “Jean
Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the
Catwalk” exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum, a retrospective exhibit of the
work of John Paul Gaultier, from the time he emerged as a designer in the 1970s
to the present.
The exhibit was nothing short of amazing. As a true fan of Gaultier’s work since I picked up my first Vogue sometime in the early 80s, I was deeply entranced by the artistry and workmanship that went into the more than 130 haute couture and prêt-à-porter ensembles in the exhibit - some familiar and others that I was seeing for the first time - accompanied by audiovisual materials, sketches, early designs and photographs, spanning over 35 years.
Some of the creations have graced the likes of Princess Caroline of Hanover, actress Marion Cotillard, Catherine Deneuve and Sarah Jessica Parker, as well as singers Beyonce and Kylie Minogue. Costumes that he created for one of his most lasting muses, Madonna, are promininently displayed throughout the exhibit.
From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk allowed for a candid glimpse into the origins of Gaultier’s genius, touching on his early influences, his muses, and his immense creativity. I have always been drawn to designers with a flair for the dramatic, and Gaultier continues to fuel that love decades after I first glimpsed his signature Breton striped shirt, shock of white blond hair and twinkling blue eyes.
The multimedia exhibit is organized around six of Gaultier’s most enduring themes in his work:
The Odyssey of Jean
Paul Gaultier— Opens the exhibit.
The sea blue backdrop sets the stage for an exploration of several of Gaultier’s
signature motifs –themes and variations of the sailor suit, embellished
mermaids, as well as religious iconography and virgins. Beautiful faces (some of French celebrities),
created by high-definition audiovisual projections on custom mannequins, lure
you in with their siren song. In the
midst of it all is a life-sized mannequin of Gaultier himself to welcome you
into his mad, mad world.
Gaultier's teddy bear "Nana" circa 1957
Two corsets worn by Madonna in her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour
The centerpiece of this section is a rotating platform of
mannequins dressed in creations that give the illusion of muscle, skeleton and
nerves.
Punk Cancan—The center runway continuously loops Gaultier’s upscale French couture creations – including a head to toe houndstooth ensemble, complete with cane, the infamous cigarette garter, and skirt painted on the underside with “can-can” legs; while the flanking runways feature an explosion of faux mohawks, tartan, denim, and camouflage, typical of the street punks of London. The first thing you see when you enter the room is a spectacular strapless chiffon-camouflage ball gown that Sarah Jessica Parker wore to the 2000 MTV Awards, which required 312 hours to make.
Punk Cancan—The center runway continuously loops Gaultier’s upscale French couture creations – including a head to toe houndstooth ensemble, complete with cane, the infamous cigarette garter, and skirt painted on the underside with “can-can” legs; while the flanking runways feature an explosion of faux mohawks, tartan, denim, and camouflage, typical of the street punks of London. The first thing you see when you enter the room is a spectacular strapless chiffon-camouflage ball gown that Sarah Jessica Parker wore to the 2000 MTV Awards, which required 312 hours to make.
Urban Jungle— Showcases how global Gaultier’s influences are, including African tribes, Spanish Flamenco dancers, Japanese Samauri, Romanis, Hussars, Mongolians, Hassidic Jews, Frida Kahlo and China. This is a visually stimulating gallery featuring highlights of Gaultier’s amazing detailing work with unusual materials and techniques. If you are a lover of haute couture, you will love this section of the exhibit.
Muses –
illustrates how Gaultier completely erases boundaries with his work – whether
it’s sending men down the runway in skirts or a larger-than-life Beth Ditto in
a corset or centering an entire collection around Amy Winehouse, who had
recently died as a result of drug use – he established this new idea of what is
beautiful.
This section also features a body suit meant to make the
wearer appear nude, with beading at the juncture of the thighs as pubic hair.
Metropolis—Showcases the work Gaultier has done for film, videos and performance pieces, including the costumes he designed for the film “the Fifth Element,” the codpiece Larry Blackmon of Cameo wears in the “Word Up” video, and stage costumes for Kylie Minogue and Tina Turner.
Jean Paul Gaultier and his avant-garde designs have repeatedly and unapologetically pushed the envelope – challenging societal norms, gender roles, and the definition of beauty for decades, making him one of the most influential designers of the modern era. This exhibit tells that story to perfection.
It is a fun and insightful exhibit that even had my husband,
who is not into fashion at all, a little in awe of Gaultier’s ingeniousness.
The traveling exhibition “The
Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk” will
be on display at the Brooklyn Museum until February 23, 2014.
